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All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

These usually have the means for returning the spirits to the column and usually allow metering of the take off to help in the reflux.

Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby kiwi-lembic » Fri Feb 18, 2011 6:37 pm

NineInchNails wrote:I think I can do a much better job and much faster if I can find a wider file or tool to use.
I like the idea you guys mentioned about using a sheet of glass with diamond paper or sand paper glued to it, but ... something is telling me that this method 'might' be slower in comparison to raking a wide tool over the top.
My local Harbor Freight store has these Combination Sharpening Stones for $2.99 each. They are 6-7/8" x 2" x 1" : http://www.harborfreight.com/combinatio ... -7345.html
I'm thinking that these stones 'might' wear in certain area and cause problems with getting as even of a surface as I'd like. I don't know though.
Image

I'd like to find a real wide file, but I don't see any on http://www.harborfreight.com

Just thinking out loud I suppose.

Thats the one im talking of ..good find
Hi Again its really a question of hardness of the material your working with or trying to remove material from
..a big thick flat sheet of glass with diamond paper on( if available) will eat it and will stay flat ..just glue it with a light contact glue
you can buy diamond files i have several of them they are so handy if your working with a material that your unsure of ,,i know that these files are gunna do the damage ,part from maybe the shell of a Nasa space ship.
Diamond being the hardest material in the world the stainless has no option but to be abraised .
Im unsure of what hardness of those stones are ,its pretty bloody hard but it works as i tried it on my sankey top ..like any cutting keep it lubed a bit of water and soapy water or some light oil so not to clog the stone ..
The stone will be fine just take long even strokes making sure your using all the stones surface and the stone will stay flat..
over here we call those indian stones ..my father would kick my ass if he saw me sharpening wood chisels in one spot on them ..so do a roundy roundy action .
Here is a hardness scale http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohs_scale ... _hardnessa ...diamond of course will be at the top @ 10 ,carbides should be down the list a bit ,carborundum however you say it is basically sand ..im pickin that stone is close to this there cut out of a rock of its materials .
The average human fingernail has a hardness of 2.5 and a copper penny has a hardness of 3.5. A stainless steel blade is about 6.5 and a section of average window glass is approximately 5.5.

Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_M ... z1EMDXC7Vp

Seen some very cool old ones on the farms ive lived on big ol wheels of them with a water tray under to keep lubed .all the hand pieces(for dear i say it sheep shearing) and all the farm knifes all sharpened on them ..hope this helps someone
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby Azframer » Fri Feb 18, 2011 6:45 pm

NineInchNails wrote:I think I can do a much better job and much faster if I can find a wider file or tool to use.

I like the idea you guys mentioned about using a sheet of glass with diamond paper or sand paper glued to it, but ... something is telling me that this method 'might' be slower in comparison to raking a wide tool over the top.

My local Harbor Freight store has these Combination Sharpening Stones for $2.99 each. They are 6-7/8" x 2" x 1" : http://www.harborfreight.com/combinatio ... -7345.html

I'm thinking that these stones 'might' wear in certain area and cause problems with getting as even of a surface as I'd like. I don't know though.
Image

I'd like to find a real wide file, but I don't see any on http://www.harborfreight.com

Just thinking out loud I suppose.

You are right with something like the stone you will wear it down and getting things true would then be hard. Draw filing takes it down fast and easy, easier and faster than normal filing.
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby NineInchNails » Fri Feb 18, 2011 7:26 pm

Azframer wrote:
NineInchNails wrote:I think I can do a much better job and much faster if I can find a wider file or tool to use.

I like the idea you guys mentioned about using a sheet of glass with diamond paper or sand paper glued to it, but ... something is telling me that this method 'might' be slower in comparison to raking a wide tool over the top.

My local Harbor Freight store has these Combination Sharpening Stones for $2.99 each. They are 6-7/8" x 2" x 1" : http://www.harborfreight.com/combinatio ... -7345.html

I'm thinking that these stones 'might' wear in certain area and cause problems with getting as even of a surface as I'd like. I don't know though.

I'd like to find a real wide file, but I don't see any on http://www.harborfreight.com

Just thinking out loud I suppose.

You are right with something like the stone you will wear it down and getting things true would then be hard. Draw filing takes it down fast and easy, easier and faster than normal filing.


The file does seem to work pretty well, but as I look closer at what's going on I can see that the file (not being very wide) also files down areas that do not need filed. That's why I'm thinking a wider file (or tool) would work better.

It was probably a brain fart on my part to say 'the sand paper on glass might be slower' ... it's the same darn thing I'm doing only the tool is wider and it's upside down :screwy: I guess I just like having the tool in my hand rather than raking the piece across the tool :D

I imagine it would be kinda difficult to wield a 33" long piece of column across sand paper though.
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby Azframer » Fri Feb 18, 2011 7:40 pm

Wider the file the better for sure, would be easier to plane more true than what you have now.
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby NineInchNails » Sun Feb 20, 2011 1:35 pm

I believe I have decided to order up some Platinum Cured Silicone gaskets. PTFE gaskets just don't seem to tolerate any irregularities what so ever.

What really made me decide to switch to silicone is a simple leak test I performed today. I clamped a couple of column lengths with what look like perfectly sealing faces using a PTFE gasket. I first placed a new ferrule against it to ensure that the sealing faces were flat all the way around ... no gaps. Anyways ... I filled it up with water and it leaked a little bit. I unclamped it, checked it out, put it back together and this time it didn't leak. I did this a few times and that joint leaked 50% of the time :x I'm starting to think that 'in my case' PTFE gaskets are not all that reliable.

I'll get a hold of some silicone gaskets and I have a feeling that I won't have to do any filing at all in order to solve this problem.
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby punkin » Sun Feb 20, 2011 1:41 pm

The envelope teflon seals are good too. Only teflon exposed with the benefit of having a rubber squishyness.
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby NineInchNails » Mon Feb 21, 2011 10:37 am

I've seen those envelope gaskets. I'll check the prices and the options with them.

I'm also trying to find out the price for Platinum cured silicone Slit ID Gaskets so I can use a couple for centering collars. The silicone caulk & copper disk idea didn't work out so hot. I figure that a silicone Slit ID Gasket would allow me to insert my copper disk with whatever centering collar hole size I want.
Image

They're supposed to work with screens and perforated disks too so I'm thinking that I'll put one on the bottom of the lowest segment of column.
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby kiwi-lembic » Mon Feb 21, 2011 12:14 pm

NineInchNails wrote:I've seen those envelope gaskets. I'll check the prices and the options with them.

I'm also trying to find out the price for Platinum cured silicone Slit ID Gaskets so I can use a couple for centering collars. The silicone caulk & copper disk idea didn't work out so hot. I figure that a silicone Slit ID Gasket would allow me to insert my copper disk with whatever centering collar hole size I want.
Image

They're supposed to work with screens too so I'm thinking that I'll put one on the bottom of the lowest segment of column.


Were are you purchasing these from Nine .what industry uses these gaskets ....cheers
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby NineInchNails » Mon Feb 21, 2011 4:24 pm

I believe these orifice plates are typically used for fluid handling applications. I imagine they are sometimes used to create restrictions throughout a piped system so that an equal volume and/or pressure can exit through multiple outlet ports without robbing from any of the other ports. In other words if you have no strictions in a line with multiple outlet ports, if you open one port then the volume & pressure suffers at all the other ports. Restrictions throughout the system keeps all ports running equally.

I just purchased 3 Tri-Clamp Platinum Cured Silicone Removable Orifice Plate Gaskets (sometimes called Slit ID Gaskets) without the insert plate/blank from http://www.rodem.com in the USA.

I believe these originate from http://www.newmangasket.com/orificeplategaskts.htm in the USA.

The 3" were $23.64 each ... I know they aren't cheap, but they solve the problem and are a high quality prefabricated part that I couldn't make myself. I figure cry once and never cry again :lol:

I cut some 1" copper pipe to length, put it in the vice, cut it lengthwise with a hack saw, opened it up and flattened it with a rubber mallet over a 2x4. That flattened it pretty well. From what I’ve read … the thickness of the orifice plate/insert/blank is typically 0.060” thick. I just measured the thickness of my copper plate and its approx 0.045” thick. It should work to center the reflux inside this gasket. I’m not sure what the diameter of the disk should be, but I’ll figure that out once I get the gaskets.
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby NineInchNails » Fri Feb 25, 2011 9:28 pm

I just received the platinum cured silicone gaskets and they worked like a charm. I filled the keg and the 5' column with water and left it for well over an hour. Absolutely no leaks what so ever. No filing & polishing for me :8)

The removable orifice plate gaskets/slit ID gaskets have yet to arrive, but should arrive very soon. I called Newton Sanitary Gasket Co. and to find out what the diameter of the disk should be and these are the dimensions:

Diameter 3.26"
Thickness .060"

Won't be long now. Tomorrow I'll finish cutting the copper disks and finish my parrot too. I probably don't need one, but I couldn't help myself.
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby NineInchNails » Fri Mar 04, 2011 6:37 pm

I just received the platinum cured removable orifice plate gaskets the other day. 1 was on backorder.

Image

Image

Now I just have to cut the centering collar hole. I'll be drilling a bunch of holes in one of these disks to make a screen.
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby NineInchNails » Fri Mar 04, 2011 8:26 pm

I used a 1-1/4" (32mm) hole saw in my drill press to cut out the center hole.

Image

I then used a 1-1/2" (38mm) hole saw to cut a hole in a 2x4.

Image

I centered the plate and used a ball peen hammer to fold the copper plate downward.

Image

Image

Image

The center hole is 1-1/2".
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby zedzedtop » Sat Mar 05, 2011 12:09 am

Really nice job you did there. Could you fit a sight glass in one of those special gaskets I wonder?
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby NineInchNails » Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:29 am

zedzedtop wrote:Really nice job you did there. Could you fit a sight glass in one of those special gaskets I wonder?


That's a good idea. I don't know why you couldn't use a glass disk. The manufacturer said that they use disks that are .060" (1.53mm) thick for both their bonded gaskets and the slit ID gaskets.. As long as the ferrule doesn't get warped I bet you could put some thin glass in there.
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Re: All Stainless Tri-Clamp 3" VM Still

Postby kiwi-lembic » Sat Mar 05, 2011 12:29 pm

NineInchNails wrote:
zedzedtop wrote:Really nice job you did there. Could you fit a sight glass in one of those special gaskets I wonder?


That's a good idea. I don't know why you couldn't use a glass disk. The manufacturer said that they use disks that are .060" (1.53mm) thick for both their bonded gaskets and the slit ID gaskets.. As long as the ferrule doesn't get warped I bet you could put some thin glass in there.


In New Zealand i can get 4mm glass and 5 mm glass ..the 4mm thick they can usually toughen for saftey factor in a still ,but they cant toughen it in a smaller disc say 50 mm,so they tell me you have to go to 5 mm thick ceramic which will withstand 750 c heat ,the type of glass they use in a logburner for safety .(i feel this would be way safe for temp changes we deal with and rinse outs of the still after with water )
Unsure what you can find in your countries but id doubt here a thin glass in this gasket would be safe ,id imagine a sandwhich of 2 gaskets would fit the bill with the glass in the center .?
i hear of people using normal glass ....what materials do you have in your country typically used for sight glasses ..hope alls well ...Kiwi-L
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