Using keg boiler as a BK

[Swede]

I'm gearing up to do a real AG beer run, not just an AG distilling mash. I wonder what the guys here with experience think of using my keg boiler as a BK? I have a 4" triclamp on the top, and immersion elements. I don't have a separate pot big enough to use as a BK, so I'd like to try using this.

My biggest concern is residual hop oils in the boiler after the boil is done. Being that I have the 4" hole, I can get in there and clean it out if needs be, and I'll keep it open during the boil (no column contamination)

I'd like to know if this is a REALLY bad idea, or doable...

[maheel]

are you mashing mashing in something else then just boiling the liquid (and hops) in your still boiler ?

"should" be ok... i use a keggle for a beer boiler and just give it a good scrub after use every time

you do start to get a build up of what i think is called "beer stone" but a product called PBW gets that off easy.
another issue is called DMS and how you need an open boiler to let the steam out....

now that i think about it I am starting to think "dont do it".....

[Swede]

Not mashing, just using it for the boil and hops additions. I want to do the boil in it, and as far as the distillation column connection to the keg has already been upgraded to a 4" triclamp, more than enough room to let out any steam.

I have a separate mash tun already (steam injected) and plan to use the boiler for a HLT at the very least, but don't wanna buy an extra kettle if I don't need to. Not at this point anyway.

Not familiar with what the "DMS" is that you refer to though.....

[zedzedtop]

How do you intend to get the wort out? Chilling regimen? Loose hops?

I use a 25gal pot but do 16-16.5gal batches. There's an angled diptube inside the pot with a bit of mesh over it. Might be hard to add that through a 4'' hole, but it helps drain to the bottom. Outside a ball valve is connected to a plate chiller with silicone hose, which in turn is draped into the top of the fermenter. At flameout, I whirlpool like crazy with a stick 'till I get tired, say 30s. Lid on, wait 5 min, and drain through chiller into fermenter. Gotta have the output higher than the fermenter of course, but I don't like using pumps if I can avoid them. Hops are just a big cone in the middle when done, and I waste very little wort.

Dimethyl sulphide is in the malt, or precursors anyway, especially less kilned malts like pilsener. It tastes like cooked cabbage and is a flaw in beer. It is driven off with the steam as you boil. 90min boil recommended with pilsener malt. Funning thing is that it's sort of generated while the wort is hot... one reason to chill right after flameout.

Opening size has nothing to do with the amount of steam let out.

Should work fine if you have a good way to get the wort out and off the hops and hotbreak. One potential problem I see is not being able to judge the intensity of the boil visually - probably kind of hard to see in there. I guess if you're electric, you can figure that out experimentally pretty quickly.

My current still boiler used to be my hlt, and certainly could still be, but I made another e-tank so they serve separate purposes now. My wort boiler is an identical 25gal pot that I cook on gas.

I wouldn't worry about hop oils if you clean with a little pbw or oxyclean between uses.

[kiwi]

Yeah, hot PBW or similar chems will clean almost anything it seems. I have a mate that mixes it up in the lab for me, the "recipe" is floating around on the net.

So cleaning worries aren't worrying, but yeah, I'd echo the above regarding a) how will you chill and b) how will you drain.

I actually have moved to using really big hop socks after always whirlpooling etc and draining with a bit of loss. I much prefer it this way, but it kinda hinges on being able to by muslin cloth reels dirt cheap. I don't think I'd like it so much if I had to clean them and reuse.

[Swede]

Yeah, hot PBW or similar chems will clean almost anything it seems. I have a mate that mixes it up in the lab for me, the "recipe" is floating around on the net.

So cleaning worries aren't worrying, but yeah, I'd echo the above regarding a) how will you chill and b) how will you drain.

I actually have moved to using really big hop socks after always whirlpooling etc and draining with a bit of loss. I much prefer it this way, but it kinda hinges on being able to by muslin cloth reels dirt cheap. I don't think I'd like it so much if I had to clean them and reuse.

Been a few days, but I made it work.

I put the wort in the boiler, did my boil and added the whole leaf hops tied in cheesecloth sacks. At the end of the boil, I attached a hose to my bottom drain port on the boiler, then I pumped the wort into my fermentation bucket. I used my immersion chiller to get it cooled down to pitching temp (1/2hr or so). I have a 4" triclamp hole on top of the keg boiler, so cleanup was pretty easy. I pulled out the sacks, gave it a hot rinse, and a wipe down with a cloth on the inside. There didn't appear to be any residual oils or smells from the wort or hops.

I'd say, it'll do in a pinch, but a purpose built BK would've been easier. The good thing is, it worked as my HLT, steam injection boiler to boost/maintain mash temp, and a BK at the end.